Thursday, July 31, 2008

Day 25 - Sunday 20th July – Gospel Choir


BB Kings on Time Square – the Harlem Gospel Choir – an experience – we head the queue – we admire the doorman who refuses the $50 that peeps out from the back of the white hatted southern gentleman’s hand – an attempt to jump the queue – we sense a secret delight on the part of the doorman at the new balance of power - we acquire our tickets and take our place at our table – the buffet is expertly handled and 250 people are fed in 15 minutes – food is superb - Harmonies superb – recommended to all

Graeme continues to meet more and more New Yorkers – their chests puff out as he tells them how friendly they are – they are intrigued by him ...

Day 24 - Saturday 19th July – Lancaster County


Drive through the lanes of Lancaster county – Armish and Menonites in abundance – strange combinations of allowable technologies see petrol powered whipper snippers carried in the back of horse drawn carts – likewise horses pulling self powered implements with Honda motors –
Bernie and Trudy photograph madly - both fascinated with the blacks, blues and purples on the Armish clothes lines – Graeme is over it and is keen to get back to New York

A long- hard – tiring drive back to NYC.

Day 23 - 18th July - The Road to Lancaster


We change our plans and decide to head for Lancaster - A long – long – long – tiring morning – bright sun shine – haze – bright sun shine – haze – shower – bright sunshine – drizzle ......
Lunchtime arrives – we arrive at Williamsburg – we are hungry and Graeme wanted a drink – we are a little desperate – that diner and that pub cannot be that bad - yes they can – they become christened as the “red neck diner” - I keep my head down – Trudy photographs everything in sight including the patrons – I cringe -

A long – long – long – tiring afternoon – bright sun shine – haze – bright sun shine – haze – shower – bright sunshine – drizzle – hot – humid – hotter – more humid – there is a Holiday Inn – to hell with the cost! – just book in and get it over it!

Ah but life is never continually tough – Dinner in a new Italian restaurant- pastas superb - lemoncello excellent – Trudy impressed with the young waitress and offers her sons as prospective bridegrooms – waitress selects the lawyer son and agrees to email him a marriage proposal – the Armish of Lancaster would not be impressed with our swaggering progress back to the motel!

Day 22 - 17th July Niagara



We sleep well and rise late – drive to Burlington for coffee and a stroll along the foreshore – we take summer photographs to contrast with the winter shots taken in early 2006 – We note the CSU advertising sign on the foreshore.

Graeme and Bernie sleep while Trudy and I “do” the Maid of the Mist” – Trudy smiles so broadly it is hard to imagine that she did not permanently damage her face – thrilling trip – return to meet the others for an equally enjoyable Imax movie about the escapades of early Niagara adventurers.

Day 21 - 16th July – Rome to Niagara


Poor old Rome – you seem sad that we are leaving you – no need to turn out the lights yet but you should be thinking about putting up instructions indicating how to safely shut you down.
We call into one of the many identical service centres along the freeway system – Graeme heads for smokers corner – he seems to learn more from his 5 minutes of cigarette consumption than we learn from twice the time spent on the consumption of tourist books – this time he returns to the car excited – we have to go via Buffalo to try the original Buffalo wings from the Anchor Inn.
We head for Buffalo with new enthusiasm – we divert past the finger lakes and arrive at Buffalo – we follow various leads until we eventually find the Anchor Inn – it is open – feast – feel full – Buffalo rises from the bottom of my list of cities (a rival to Rome) - drift on to Niagara

We check in – gather our thoughts – wander down towards the fall – Graeme looks only half interested – Trudy’s camera finger is fully exercised – what is that noise? – we have Graeme’s attention – he is impressed – he pushes on at full speed to get closer and closer to the falls – he is impressed – Trudy’s camera overheats.

Day 20 – Woodstock to Rome – 15th July


We rise early – Woodstock still asleep – eventually she shakes her head and appears in the form of two incompetent and cranky breakfast assistants in a local cafe – the bacon and eggs barely tolerable and the coffee only a crude and unpleasant caffeine delivery mechanism.
Woodstock – pleasant enough – I was at Woodstock (40 years late!)

Sun shining - we head into the Catskills. Churches – white with square wooden bell towers mounted by shingled spires - Lush grasses preened to lush lawns fronting hide-a-way wooden houses - Hills, elm trees with dense understoreys, small mountains, lush grass, elm trees, hide-away houses nestled in bush, elm trees, a cluster of birch, an occasional blue spruce, a small village and a church with bell tower and shingled spire, more elm trees, a small lake, more hills, a small farming community, red-ochre wooden farm buildings some standing proudly – many leaning like an old man suffering the aches and pains of old age and neglect, another hide-a-way with grass preened to lawn, more elms, another cluster of birch, another hide-a-way, more even more magnificent elm trees, another village and another church, another small pond, an occasional cluster of maples, another small farming community, more hide-ways, more elm trees, more villages – summer paradise! – come winter? – perhaps Florida might be preferred!
New Blenheim – not that new – what a bridge – why covered bridges? –

the real reason for covering timber bridges was to protect the main timber trusses from the detrimental affect of rain/snow ........... rot.

Eventually join the interstate I90 and make rapid progress towards Rome – cross the famous and infamous Erie Canal – “I've got a mule, Her name is Sal, Fifteen years on the Erie Canal. She's a good old worker and a good old pal........ “ - the canal - a sad remnant of its magnificent past – no sign of “Sal” and no barges in sight – neglected locks rust away serving little more than as a monument to days gone by.

We enter Rome – never huge but historically important – the place of early trade interactions with the indigenous – now her long history as a goods transfer hub between the river systems of upper New York State seems to have been forgotten – she is dying away just as the Canal has died – population has been in steady decline since the 1980s – now only 34,000 - the road trains hurtle past on the turnpikes that only barely acknowledge her existence - she resembles a dying city with dour, unexciting streets and tourist attractions that seem uninviting. Her county airport is now closed down and host local police training – the receptionist at the motel seems to think that the casino is now the major employer.

We enter the bar at the hotel – experienced travellers should be concerned about empty bars and restaurants - terrible drinks – atrocious food - When in Rome do as the Romans do – eat in and give the restaurants a miss.

Day 19 – I was at Woodstock – 14th July 2008


Farewell to the Bowens – farewell to the kids – program the GPS and agree that it is to be called “Marge”. Head off for Woodstock via the United States freeway systems and subsequently the minor roads of the Catskill mountains.

Marge proves to be an old model of the Garmin GPS system – she regularly makes mistakes and starts to acquire an unsavoury name .

Arrive at Woodstock – small town – lovely setting – tourism seems to drive the economy – residues of the former hippie community abound – wander the town – head for the bar – strike up conversation with a local who claimed to be a local jeweller and conservationist – strikes me as someone more likely to be encountered on a bull dozer tearing up the bush – we adjourn to the attached diner – great meal – home to sleep off the day.

Day 18 – 13th July 2008


Final Event – The Brunch

It seemed like the entire guest list managed to make it to the brunch at the Bowen’s community centre – nice – important event – everyone tired – Bowens had done a marvellous job – Jane and Peter looked tired but remained gracious to the very end – The perceptive would have, I suspect, detected in them relieve that it was over and that at last they could relax.

The Antipodeans wind down at the Stonehouse – dinner
in Tiverton – Matty stars once again!

NYC - Day 17 – 12th July 2008


Fourth Function – The Wedding - Groom and Best Man arrive at the Stone House accompanied by the wedding planner – she checks everyone – ushers the family into the limo – not a drop of champagne spilled on the way to the church - Great ceremony.

Back into the limo and off to the reception at Ocean Cliff overlooking Newport Harbour about 30 minutes away – Graeme interrogates the limo driver in true Crocodile Dundee style.

Arrive at Ocean Cliff via a detour past the famous mansions of Newport - photos on the lawn in front of the reception centre – admire the water craft both modern and historic traversing the harbour.

Brief welcome by the Bride parents – no more speeches – into the wedding celebrations proper – lots of dancing and great food and drink.

Reception finishes – a selection of guests meet back in Newport for a cruise on the harbour on a historic schooner - Amy especially organises snacks of Australian meat pies and lamingtons from New York – alas the Americans do not understand the concept – much to Amy’s disappointment the pies arrive cold and the lamington’s are coated with half an inch of rich chocolate icing – the pies and lamingtons ordinary! - The cruise - magnificent – peaceful – beautiful.

Arrive home –tired – elated – sit up and watch a television program featuring an interview that Sofia had done with a local American sleaze tycoon – later reveals she was devastated that they had edited out her tough questions.

NYC – Day 16 – 11th July 2008


Third Function – the Rehearsal Dinner - Now this one had all the Australians somewhat confused. Why would you need to rehearse a dinner? - 70 people – close friends and “out of towners” - gathered on a wooden stage under an open sided marquee for dinner right on the waterfront at Bristol – the food again stunning – Scallops the size of small potatoes - literally melted in your mouth – these New Englanders really know something about seafood even if they have a lot to learn about coffee.

Everyone who participated in the wedding ceremony had earlier attended a rehearsal at the Church – the rehearsal took longer than the real ceremony

NYC – Day 15 – 10th July 2008



The Maid of Honour arrives – a tiny dynamo – American to the core – her name is Pinkie – a delight! – the Best Man arrives – approaches 6’6” – young clean cut – distinguished – Oxford graduate – also an absolute delight.

The newly arrived antipodeans surely would use the spare day to go sightseeing in the NE area – not if that group included Trudy – she shepherds the others into cars for a “sightseeing” tour of the outlet stores on the outskirts of Boston – so much for sightseeing in the NE area.

Amy arranges for Simons favourite meal to be served at the Stonehouse - Ribs flown in from Memphis – Simon acts as chef – turns on the oven – heats them up – we all feast!

NYC – Day 14 – 9th July 2008


Effects of the travels really start to kick in for the newly arrived antipodeans – lots of sleeping in – plans for visits to the countryside are shelved – most sit quietly around the Stonehouse.
Second function of the wedding carnival – Meet the In-Laws - We gather at Evelyn’s on the waterfront at Tiverton – we are promised crab rolls to die for – we receive crab rolls to die for – a great night with the wedding party and the immediate families – look up Evelyn’s on the web – Graeme amuses and entertains the waitress and Barclay’s father .

NYC Day 13 - 8th July 2008

A quite morning - peaceful surrounds – some sleeping in – some breakfasting on the lawns quietly watching squirrels and chipmunks - some walking and wandering in the environs of the Stonehouse – all continue to be enthralled by Matilda who displays a complete lack of any travel symptoms and who delights in crawling around on the polished boards of the hunting room floor.

First function of the wedding carnival – dinner with the Bride’s parents – off to a bad start – Mike leads the way – gets lost – Rick and the others follow but in turn lose Mike – eventually all arrive to find an anxious bride and groom (to-be) pacing up and down – not a good impression! - Peter Bowen master chef presents magnificent dinner of wild salmon – Graeme amuses all with his wedding stories –This one had the bride and her mother splitting their sides with laughter:

I went to ask my father in law for permission to marry his daughter – he said “yes - but have you seen her mother yet?” – “yes but I would prefer the daughter”

NYC Day 12 – Wedding Week

The others arrive at Tiverton from NYC – tired and slightly dishevelled – only Matty appears to be her usual cheery self – off to the Stone House – circa 1919 – built from local stone – originally a hunting lodge overlooking the river – now hidden away in a cluster of native trees and neatly trimmed by lush lawn – chipmunks and squirrels abound - huge central lounging space – a more serene setting in which to prepare for the wedding would be hard to imagine.
To the liquor store to supplement Amy’s stocking of the StoneHouse and (to be discovered much later) – lose Rick’s wallet - Graeme intrigues the proprietors – they immediately treat him as the “long lost cousin” – Americans continue to delight – friendly – helpful – courteous – Graeme keeps telling them – “even the people in New York are friendly”

To the convenience store for milk, coffee, sugar and salt – Bernie stunned - nothing substantial – lollies – ice creams – biscuits – anything sweet – sugar supplemented cereals – dog food – more dog food – practically nothing substantial

Monday, July 7, 2008

Day 11 - A day on the water

Breakfast at Bristol - quaint old seafront properties in the historical district - people were busy populating the area when Captain Cook was still a boy! - Beechworth you are a new comer on the block - discuss the merits or otherwise of antipodean bacon - eggs Benedict superb!
Try to win over Baron - he remains resolute - I am not to be trusted - he has rare insight!
Down to the sea in boats - what every Rhode Island native is driven to do! - the landlubber watches the expert ready the boat - away - away up the Sakarnet River - under the Bridge built on land acquired from Peter's forefathers - admire the Massachusetts - feel sorry for the giant of history serving her last days as a monument to her glory days - admire the generosity of Peter's forebears in making her berth available - back past the coal fired power station down through the Bristol Narrows towards Peter's grandfather's former farm and house - slowly - slowly watch the depth gauge - 6 feet - 5 feet - 4 feet - 3 feet - not looking good - 3.5 feet - 4 feet - we just may make it to the jetty - 5 feet - sure will - take some shots looking up towards the house - hear Peter's memories of happy days in his grandfather's house - enthralling - he clearly was a character!
Back out of the Bristol Narrows - admire the classic craft that populate the area - think about the old movies and the glory days of environs of Newport.
Home to scallops and summer squash on a bed of spinach and feta - Once again Bernie would be jealous - I am eating well for someone who normally avoids seafood.
The others arrive in New York - Matilda has travelled well - Graeme has a new suite to compensate him for his luggage deciding that it wanted to do some sight-seeing before heading down to New York - locate Simon and Graeme by phone - where else but in the bar in University Place.
Admire Peter's skills as a woodworker and joiner - magnificent chippendale style tall boys, cabinets, desks and low boys - envy the skill, persistence and dedication involved in the creations.
Sip more Australian wine - learn about the US health system and intricacies of retirement planning from Peter.

Saturday, July 5, 2008

Day 12 - 5th July

The gentle rains warns against a planned visit to Martha's Vineyard - a quite morning contemplating the vista across the bay.
An afternoon tour of Tiverton and Newport - across the multi-span suspension bridge built by the Rockerfellers to ease their access to their summer residences on Newport Sound - past the mansions that provided the summer refuges for the elite of New York society - Vanderbilts, the Astors, the Rockerfellers, the Bouviers - around the harbour - past the New York Yacht Club.
Home to genuine New England Seafood Chowder Peter Bowen style - Oh Bernadette and Graeme don't you wish you were here!

Day 10 - 4th July

Across the Mt Hope Bridge - past Roger Williams University named after one of the pioneers of Bristol - courageously forge on past the parking cars and streams of flag and picnic basket carrying patriots as we search for sometimes unachievable - a parking spot near the route of the 230th staging of the Bristol 4th July parade - we achieve the sometimes unachievable!

The flags are everywhere - they are in every imaginable size and in every imaginable location - the Cape Cod houses themselves are draped in red, white and blue fabrics and their gardens are decked out with garden settings, barbecues and picnic tables in preparation for the after-parades parties.

We find our way to main street - to a slightly tired and bedraggled America 3 sitting becalmed on her stand remembering the glory days of her former kindred on the waters of Newport Sound - we perch on the wall that separates the Main Street from the sea front and await the parade.

What a parade - marching bands , soldiers, sailors Governors, Attorney Generals, the employees of the local council, ambulance officers, police, returned soldiers, high schools, the University, fire brigades, clowns, comedians and singers - all in style- all applauded - all appreciated - all celebrated.

Home - Peter Bowen - expert Seafood Chief! - the visitors arrive for 4th July celebrations - we feast on New England Lobster and Steamers - expert tuition provided by all on the appropriate techniques to be use in the consumption of the local fare - watch the fireworks across the bay - consume wine - retire - a great day!


Days 9 Tiverton

Amy and Wendy collect me at the apartment - A final fitting for a wedding dress - collect Jane - off to Rhode Island
A holiday weekend is a holiday weekend - is a holiday weekend anywhere! - an entry ramp to an Expressway can be a parking lot anywhere - the entry ramp to the FDR Expressway IS a parking lot approaching the 4th July weekend - we slowly progress out of uptown Manhattan towards the New England Turnpike - ten lanes of traffic at the toll booth - she skillfully weaves the SUV from row 10 to row 1 just in time to take the New England exit - Amy has done this before!
The day cools and the humidity drops - the country side is green - pleasant - inviting - the flags are out - the red, white and blue signals the coming holiday.
Through the outskirts of Providence - more industrial than I remember it - on towards Tiverton - more rural than I expected - enter the waterside estate that Bowen's share with around 100 others - beautiful house - magnificent views over Mt Hope Bay towards Bristol and Newport.

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Day 8 - Last day in NYC for the time being

Hot but not as hot as it is expected to be - humid but not as humid as it is expected to be.
Bernie says you always must cleanup before the cleaner comes - clean up.
Wander around and photograph the neighbourhood -I've been told New Yorkers walk in a particular controlled and stylised way - arms swinging close to their bodies, big strides on a straight path - if this is the case there are no New Yorkers in East Village - pedestrian traffic is chaotic - walkers go to great pains to make sure no side of the side walk is disadvantaged by regularly changing right to left to right all in the space of a block - there is a rule - head into the crowd, avoid eye contact and play chicken with fellow traveller. There must be an unwritten lay that says that if you make accidental make eye contact then one of you is ethically bound to give way to the other - just who is supposed to give way to who is in someway or other agreed in the course of the eye contact as there are rarely any physical collisions - if there is it is followed by an immediate and sincere apology.
Into Grand Central Station - or is it terminal? - instructions from Phil Sefton mean that participation in the 12:30 guided tour of the station is compulsory.
The tour takes 90 minutes - very well done - I can understand the recommendation - spectacular building - beautifully restored - rare to see a working monument so well restored and maintained.
Walk the diamond district - I need to be familiar with it in order to be able to guide Bernie away from it as she wanders the town - sit and contemplate the crowd in Bryant Park - what a nice place right on the Avenue of the Americas and 42nd Street - people sitting around eating their lunch - sun baking - chatting - drinking coffee - see numerous people "run into one another" - they greet, exchange pleasantries and move on - you could be forgiven for thinking you were sitting at a coffee table in the main street of Lockhart such is the village like interactions between some of the people yet this park of around 20 acres is surrounded on four sides by huge man made edifices with cars and trucks tooting and generating noise that bursts in and out of the foreground.
Into a NY Yankees outlet - a tee shirt and shorts - back to the transport shop at Grand Central - look for something for Tom - Find a "Brooklyn to the Bronx" tee shirt complete with the green circled number 5 that so faithfully guided me to and from Union Square on the NY Sub-way.
Home tired and footsore - nice day - I will capable of being the guide when I return in a fortnight's time with Bernie, Graeme and Trudy.

Days 6 and 7 - Back to Reality

Damm! time for some work

Write to sites visited in Canada - report to AARNet - rest occasionally and stare out the window looking at people wandering along University Place - sneak out for a bagel - am I a true New Yorker or What - I think so after all I know all there is to know about a toasted everything bagel with tofu and can even acquire a latte in the same breath.

Read up on the goings on in e-Health - it all seems the same - chaotic activtiy with scarcely any national progress - Think briefly about the poor individuals striving to make things happen - catch up on all the email.

Sleep well - rise early - today is gong to be a day of achievement - By the end of the morning Graeme will have telephone and fax facilites enabled for his wandering across two continents and the drivers of our hire cars will have "Tommy" to guide them through the complexities of overseas navigation -

Lunchtime - a startling lack of progress - the TomTom site is down, no one likes my credit cards and there is such an array of telephone options that it is difficult to select the right option - the needle is somewhere in that haystack of options.

Out to see car rental place - amazing - collection point less than 200 metres from the appartment - big and aging blonde behind the counter - no you cannot register yourself as a driver unless you are with the car and the car is not here! - damm - "don't worry dear" you can do it anywhere once you have the car - thank you - glad I could help

Back inside - struggle with 'Tommy" - sort out the telephone and discover faxmate.

Not a great day! - the 10% rule at play? - not too bad is it given that the quality of the other days.

The photos of this blog are typical of the days ........